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The Haute Route is the most scenic trek in Europe. Up until August of 2014, some individuals’ ability to enjoy the entire trek and all of its scenery and majesty was limited. With recent modifications to the ladder system on Pas de Chèvres between Lac de Dix and Arolla overlooking the Cheilon Glacier, not only is the route safer and faster, but less strenuous. Most important of all, the addition of a new ladder system with viewing platforms allows hikers of all abilities to enjoy views which were never widely available before.
As you ascend from Lac de Dix by way of a newly established trail on the west side of the Cheilon Glacier, Pas de Chevres comes into view on your left. Once you make your way through the rock field you will find the path wending its way upwards to the base of the ladders clearly marked with trail signs.
The previous ladders were installed decades ago and had been subjected to the elements as well as the traffic of thousands of hikers. Many hikers chose not to climb those ladders, opting instead for the steep, loose terrain of Col de Riedmatten. Given these two options, this section of the hike became more of a dreaded moment than an enjoyable experience. Now, however, all of the stunning glory of the Cheilon Glacier, Pigne d’Arolla and La Ruinette, to name only a few of the natural wonders surrounding your ascent, can be enjoyed free of trepidation.
The new ladders, installed early in August of 2014, are a marvel of Swiss engineering. Built directly into the cliff face on a freshly scoured swath of granite, these ladders inspire confidence. A two-stage section of ladders consisting of approximately 40 rungs leads to the first of three catwalks. Once the first of these catwalks is reached, you tread along a protected walkway for approximately 40 feet where you arrive at a third ladder. This 30-rung ladder takes you to another, smaller catwalk. From here, one more 15 rung ladder takes you to the final platform from which you descend by way of a traditional staircase.
Views from all of these catwalks and platforms are stellar, and you can snap pictures and take in the splendor with a feeling of safety and security. Whether you feel the need to move quickly or linger and enjoy the view of glaciers and peaks surrounding you, the experience is second to none.
As for Col de Riedmatten, the conditions in the summer of 2016 were variable. Though there are cables and chains protecting the upper sections of the trail, rockfall is always a possibility and many choose to use the ladders for several reasons: the ascent via the ladders gains less elevation overall, the path is better-maintained and more well defined, and the descent on the backside of the pass is more gradual. Since the construction of the new ladders on Pas de Chèvres, no plans to continue development or improvement of the trail on Col de Riedmatten have been announced. Though the chains and cabled may remain through the years, the condition of the path itself cannot be guaranteed, whereas the investment in the new construction on Pas de Chevres bodes well for years of upkeep and safe travel.