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The very mention of "the ladders" used to put fear into the hearts of some the toughest Haute Route trekkers. Climbing or descending the 90 iron rungs that connect the bucolic Val d,Hèrens with the icy and rocky expanse of the Cheilon Glacier, over the Pas de Chèvres would require a stout heart and nerves of steel-especially if you happened to be carrying a heavy pack, skis, or if the rungs are wet and icy.
But in August 2014 a new set of ladders was installed on the Pas de Chèvres which are sturdier, safer, and a lot less demanding on the climber's sphincter. The new ladders are slightly less vertical, and separated into stages with platforms between each stage which allow you to stand a relax before ascending the next stage of ladder. The installation of the new ladders was a project of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC), and the Commune d’Hérémence and the Commune d’Evolène. There are still about 90 rungs, but the ascent is a lot more manageable.
On a clear and warm summer day, it can be a grand adventure and an exhilarating day hike, complete with Matterhorn views, glacier views, plus a little scrambling and boulder hopping.
Starting from Arolla walk up the narrow winding paved streets to the Grand Hotel Kurhaus. Continue up the marked trail a southwesterly direction to Remointse d'Arolla. Soon you rise through the treeline amid scattered larch and Arolla pines. Continuing up the trail, with the Pigne d'Arolla and the Glacier de Tsdjiore Nouve on your left you'll maintain a steady ascent.
Following the trail in the direction of both the Col de Riedmatten and the Pas de Chèvres, you come to a popular rest stop and fork in the trail at an elevation of 2738m/8982ft with the ridgeline of the Monts Rouge in front of you. The path to the right takes you to the Col de Riedmatten, and the path to the left to the Pas de Chèvres-both passes and routes clearly visible in front of you.
Here the hike becomes a loop. You do the clockwise ascent of the Pas de Chèvres (2855m/9366 ft), descend the ladders then make the boulder-strewn traverse to ascend the Col de Riedmatten (2943m/9622ft) and return back to junction or do it as a counter-clockwise loop. For my money, I prefer the counter-clockwise version, which has you descending the narrow Col de Riedmatten and climbing the ladders.
Either way, you can expect fine views in all directions from the summit of both passes-views that include the distant Matterhorn, the Weisshorn, Mt Blanc de Cheilon and the Cheilon Glacier. Your return to Arolla will be a steady descent of 937m/3042ft and those trekking poles will be a godsend as they cushion your well-worked knees.
This hike is featured on Alpenwild's Haute Route.